{"id":1235,"date":"2015-08-12T06:59:00","date_gmt":"2015-08-12T06:59:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/paullferguson.dev\/?p=1235"},"modified":"2015-11-02T10:49:51","modified_gmt":"2015-11-02T10:49:51","slug":"the-macedonian-fruit-seller-the-bulgarian-mountain-and-the-irish-rocket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/paullferguson.com\/the-macedonian-fruit-seller-the-bulgarian-mountain-and-the-irish-rocket\/","title":{"rendered":"The Macedonian fruit seller, the Bulgarian mountain and the Irish rocket\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"

Stats & Maps<\/a><\/p>\n

Into Macedonia<\/h3>\n

Skirting Lake Ohrid brings the Albania – Macedonia border, I have no idea what to expect of the quiet landlocked country. Straight into the Gali\u010dica National Park<\/em> over a long mountain pass to Lake Perspa, the air thick with all sorts of butterflies. At a viewpoint I’m given some lunch by Peter, an Austrian who’s done his own fair share of touring and is now driving with two French hick hikers. Gazing at the TV while I refuel in the petrol station I laugh as the shot pans back to reveal I’m watching Time Team<\/em>, thick Dorset accents and English meadows. Next is an advert for Wartime Farm<\/em> which romanticized beast powered farming and simple living, it looks a little awkward in a Macedonian context as a laden mule pass outside.<\/p>\n

\"Fixing <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Lake <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Lake <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Clouds <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Lake <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

It looks sure to rain so I pitch the tent among ruined farm buildings but all it does is bake me through he night.
\nAt 6:00 am the mutter of conversation from the field next door has me striking camp with stealth but the workers in field don’t raise their headed from the backbreaking picking of tobacco. A helpful elderly goat herder climbs up an embankment to offer directions.<\/p>\n

\"Rough <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Ants <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Goat <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

A long gentle downhill has 100 km covered before lunch but also adds a broken phone charging cable to the fun. Two large towns and all their phone shops later I’m still left with a dud phone. I failed to pack a spare, lesson learnt. Warm soul Lazar a fruit stand owner sees me sat waiting for another tech shop to open, he invites me over to his stoop and we chat and watch the afternoon pass, he keeps passing me fruit and gives me a shampoo bottle of homemade Raki for later. Wedding cars pulls up next to us horns blaring; groom, family and a small band form a procession to fetch the bride from her home and return in full party swing. Horns blaring they push into the traffic and are off just as quick to the church ceremony. Lazar speaks impressive English, turns out he learnt working in the kitchens of the NATO troops during the Serbian conflict twenty years ago, for six months he listened to the Irish staff and picked it up, a remarkable feat of learning. I can’t help but be inspired to make learning a language my next personal goal.<\/p>\n

\"Lazar <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Wedding, <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Wedding <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Camping <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

The shop finally opens and I resupply all my various cables with spears and grab the last phone cable they have. Apple is maybe not the smartest choice.<\/p>\n

Finally back in the road I make my way up into the hills to a charming spring and picnic table off the road, it’s a perfect secluded camping spot and after a wash in the spring clothes don’t seem necessary so they remain in the bag for the evening.<\/p>\n

The next day takes me past silted up reservoirs and brings me just shy of the Bulgarian border.\"Silted<\/a><\/p>\n

Bulgaria<\/h3>\n

The border passes with a few pokes of my bags and a grunt, then a long decent to the main road north towards Sofia. I had noticed on the map an airstrip but was a little surprised to find the road itself became the runway, spreading 6 lanes wide on a flat stretch as far as the eye could see, though it seems to be retired\u00a0now\u00a0from its secondary function.<\/p>\n

On a remote road gazing at the distant hills my front wheel slams into a pothole, the bike rapidly comes to a stop immobilized with no shade in the high noon sun. The offending holes are found, patched and tyre pumped but the patch blows off. Three similar failed attempts later and I go for the spare tube, it’s maddening and I can only laugh to myself. The heat is too much for the patches which is a worrying prospect given the road ahead.<\/p>\n

The headwind winds ally with the failed patches in a war against my moral but by the time I arrive at the mountain resort of Borovets I climbed plenty of altitude which is at least something. Inquiring about camping the local laughs, he takes me to a homely chalet at the foot of the trail where for \u00a37 I get proper room with shower and a welcoming beer, it’s a great nights sleep.<\/p>\n

\"Highway <\/a> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Colourful <\/a> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n

Mt Musala<\/h3>\n

Sat in the center of the National Park Rial<\/em> is Bulgaria’s highest mountain Mt Musala and it turns out also the Balkan’s at 2926m. Not sure how many day it will take I pack up the bike and and kit, the kind chalet owner lets me leave it with her. With a bodged together backpack packed I set off with the dawn chorus for the top.<\/p>\n

Is a fairly simple hike, the first half is a gravel road following the river up to some chairlifts where it then switches to a boggy path to the Musala Hut where basic snacks and accommodation are available. The last quarter runs through old bolder fields and is a fairly easy going, no scree, no via ferrata. Considering town was fairly busy it’s spooky to only pass one other hiker on the whole assent. The top has some great clear views but it’s far more Peak District than Alpine. The decent goes smoothly till my stomach started to bubble, the last half is a race against my gut as some bad water makes itself felt. Returning to the chalet a bit pale I book in again the hostess medicating me with mint tea.<\/p>\n